Historical Hair from the Charleston Museum
Assorted jewelry pieces produced from human remains have existed since prehistory. Thus, as European countries raced to establish colonies at the ends of the earth, these once tribal accoutrements were eventually, and unsurprisingly, adopted by assorted members of the socially elite. To be sure, human teeth, bone and skin were indeed a bit morbid for most socialites. Hair, however, was not. After all hair could, like cotton or silk, be woven or arranged into beautiful patterns, and it was moreover almost instantly recognized as a memento mori: a souvenir of sorts from a deceased loved one.
Initially, Charleston's taste in hair-fashioned mourning jewelry kept with the style of the Georgian period (circa 1714-1830), and the relatively modest lockets, medallions and brooches often depicted funerary scenes “drawn” with hair from the departed. Yet, as the Victorian period ripened during the mid-19th century, hair jewelry grew larger and especially intricate.
By 1850, jewelers and artists alike began using human hair for much more than just memorial goods. In fact, as hair jewelry (or hair work) became increasingly chic, hair harvested from the deceased was no longer deemed an essential ingredient. Ultimately, hair jewelry pieces re-emerged as individual, stand-alone adornments and even tokens of affection. Long watch chains, necklaces and bracelets woven from anonymous "donor hair," were being purchased by both men and women. By 1855, the wearing of hair-woven items was simply considered modish rather than mournful; stylish rather than sorrowful.
Grahame Long is the Curator of History for The Charleston Museum. He has produced various exhibitions covering a wide array of subjects from colonial medical procedures to Charleston's church silver. He has written numerous articles for both local and national publications, and is a frequent speaker at historical forums and antiques symposia.
All images © copyright The Charleston Museum All rights reserved
